BUILDING THE STEALTH PLATTER 1/2 A TRAINER
You may use these plans freely for non-profit use only!
|1||Foam Board 3/16"||1||Lead-out Guide|
|2||Plywood 1/16 X 1 1/4 X 12||1||4-40 X 1/2" screw, #6 Washer and blind nut|
|1||Balsa Sheet 1/8" X 3" X 36"||7||Screws 2-56 x 3/4 and washers|
|1||.055 (1/16") music wire, .078 (5/64") music wire and 3 Plastic Wheels||9||Nuts 2-56|
|1||T-Angle Motor Mount||1||Control Horn|
|1||Lead Weight 1/4 oz||1||Bell-crank & Spacer|
|1||.055 X 9" Pushrod Wire||1||Cox Black Widow with Cox 6 X 3 prop.|
|Tail Fins |
|Step 1. - Cut Parts
Cut the foamboard and all balsa parts according to the outline directions. Cutting 2 plywood doubles 1/16 X 1 1/4 X 12" in length. Cut the tail fins and elevator part from the 1/8" sheet of balsa.
|Step 2. Fill Foam Edges |
Use the flat edge of a scissors to crimp the edge of the foam to create a slight taper airfoil. Fill all of the edge of the foam with Titebond glue. This will seal the foam from being exposed when painting.
|Step 3. - Elevator |
Epoxy a connecting rod using 1/16" steel wire, so both elevators move as one piece. The center elevator will remain stationary. Use scrap of nylon or fiberglass tape and epoxy to reinforce the connection.
| Step 4 Center Section
The center triangle section does not move!
Bevel the center triangular elevator so the connecting wire is not in the way of the movement.
|Step 5 Elevator Assembly |
Assembly the elevator as shown. Do not hinge or glue anything at this point.
6 - Doublers |
Glue the plywood doublers to the top and bottom. Make sure the doublers are exactly in the center on both side. Use a clamp or heavy object to clamp down the doublers and let it dry over night.
NOTE: The elevator connecting rod is sandwich between the top and bottom plywood doublers.
|Step 7 Hinge the Elevator |
Use the FastCal tape hinge or Scotch Crystal Clear Packing Tape, to join the elevator to the main body. Un-like the Platter, only apply the hinge to the top side.
sure that both elevators moves from neutral to the up position simultaneously. The
center triangle section does not move. The Stealth Platter does not require
any down elevation. Neutral flight for this airplane will be slightly up.
|Step 8 - The Tail |
Installing the Stealth Fins at a 60 degree angle.
|Step 9 - Lead-Out Guide |
| On any new or untested
designed model, it is a good idea to make the guide adjust adjustable. You
can do this easily by drilling addition holes. If the airplane come in at
you while you are flying, you can move the lead-out a little farther back. |
|Step 10 - Paint the Platter |
You can used any fuel proof paint although model airplane dope is the best. If you can not get dope, use Rustoleum brand paint will give you enough fuel proofing. Epoxy paint is very fuel proof but don't apply too heavy a coat. You should not use more that 2 coat on this model. One good coat should do it. If you want a smoother job on the rudder section, apply a few coat of clear dope and sand it smooth before spray the final color coat.
|Step 11. - Control Horn & Pushrod |
Install all hardware. Drill holes for the control horn first. Bolt on control horn with 1 washer on the bottom.
Make the Pushrod from 1/16" piece of steel music wire. Make a Z or J-bend and one end. Make an adjustment Z-bend in the middle. Install the Control Horn and attach the pushrod to it. Make a bend 90 degree up and attach it to the bell-crank. Position the bell-crank in a neutral position.
Adjust the bell-crank, so the neutral position is slightly up. This is because the Stealth Platter does not actually have a true air-foil and require a positive incidence to fly level.
|Step 12 - Bell-crank Assembly |
Drill the hole for the bell-crank and install it according to the instructions diagram.
Install lead-out assembly. Make lead-out wires from scrap .015 or .018
cable or music wire.
13 - Leadout Wire |
Here is an alternate method of making the leadouts from a solid steel wire rather than using the crimp and sleeve method for stranded steel cable.
You can make a leadout wire from .025 music wire. Do the same on the bellcrank end and connector end.
- Landing Gears|
Make the gear with high quality steel music wire. Install landing gear assembly and wheels. Install the rear landing gear 8" back from the nose. Use the 440 X 1/2" bolt and number 6 washer to fasten the gear in place.
Notice that the washer is bend in a concave shape. This will help to secure the gear better.
|15 - Nose Gear|
Do not make the lower bend for the wheel yet. This will allow you to install the nose gear from the top.
The nose gear is made with heavier gauge or wire. Use 5/64" or 3/32 music wire.
|Step 16. - Install Engine Mount|
If you can not find the aluminum T-bar for the engine mount, use 2 L-bar on each side or construct a wood mount using 1/8" plywood for the firewall. Plans for this mount is on the Platter Plans.
Install 1/2 oz of weight offset on the outboard wing tip. If the outboard wing is too high or model come in during flight, you may need to add more weight.
Install the engine mount and do not over tighten the screws on the mount. It's only foam-board, and over tightening can make the mount more fragile.
You Stealth Platter should now look like this, right?
18 - Flying
Step 19 - Flight Trimming
When the airplane is in the air, watch to see if the inboard or outboard wing is dipped. It may become necessary to adjust the tip weight so the airplane flies level. If the airplane flies with the inboard wing down, one method is to cut down the outboard elevator or twist them the opposite way giving the outboard more up elevator.
Have fun flying!