Basic Covering with Silkspan on a 1/2A model

Pre-dope the frame work, using 2 to 3 coat. Thin the dope 50/50 and sand with 400 between coat. I like to use Nitrate Dope for this step because it has better adhesion.

Measure the silkspan and cut it out, leaving at least a 1 inch border to work with.

Dope the frame just before you layout the silkspan. Atomize the silkspan with water very lightly.

Pull out all of the major wrinkles and tack down the edges with more dope over the frame work. . Be extra gentle and careful not to pull too hard. Atomic more water as needed.

Pay attension to critical areas, like the wing tips. Atomize more water to work these wrinkle out. Warning: Light Silkspan is very fragile so don't over water it.

Apply more dope over the top of all of the edges like leading edge and trailing edge.

Gently gather the corner to work out any wringle on the wing tip. The wing tips are the hardest to do, so spend more time with it. The tip can be done in one piece if you are patient. If you have more complecated tip, you can cut them into several section. Apply thye front section first and work back.

After dope has dried, sand edge off using 220 sand paper. This will create a seamless edge. Go over all edge again with more dope. DO NOT paint open bays between the ribs until you have covered the entire model.

It will take 4 to 5 coats of Butyrate Dope for a minimal covering enough for flight. Any more is call a finish, which is another topic.Sand 400 between coat. If you want a nicer finish, spray on the last few coats.

Note: If you cover with this method, you should not have to shrink if any further with dope. If you see minor wrinkles, try the re-wet these areas and shrink with a heat gun, before you apply dope it.

I like to stay with clear dope and dyes to keep the wing load down on a 1/2A model. Using clear does not require primer or base coat procedures to get a fairly nice result.